Health and Beauty Articles
Make up that lasts from A.M to P.M!
For those of you who don’t have the luxury of that enviable thing that we call ‘spare time’ when it comes to making ourselves glamorous I have devised an article aimed just for you! Having time to do two full applications of make up for the day and evening isn’t always manageable as the chore of cleaning the initial war paint off plus the application itself will take the best part of an hour! The good news is there is a whole range of products and techniques at the ready to combat this problem; meaning that not only will your make up will stay in place all morning - it won’t have slid half way down your face come 10 o’clock at night (we’ve all been there, and don’t plan on revisiting!)
Here’s an easy 10 step guide for your long-lasting make over:
First of all you have to assign yourself 15 minutes in the morning for the initial application
Step 1: Your skin must be dirt and grease free for lasting make up – give your skin a good clean with your desired cleanser and towel dry.
Step 2: Combine your primer and moisturiser in one by using Bobbi Browns face base all over the face and neck area – this will even out skin tone, moisturise and prep the skin for makeup. If you want an instant complexion boost apply a light covering of St Tropez Bronzing mousse – but remember to apply it to the neck as well! Allow this to dry as putting foundation on top of moisture will cause it to slide and sit heavy on the skin.
Step 3: For long-lasting make up you need a foundation that is long wearing – light foundations aren’t suitable for this type of application. I swear by Estee Lauder’s Double wear foundation – I’ll never forget someone once commenting that it resembles cement! But the coverage is incredible and very little or no concealor is required as it covers blemishes and dark pigmentation circles. Popular shades are Ecru (for very pale skin) Fresco (for light skin) Tawny (for medium skin) and Pebble (for slightly darker skin) I will often mix a couple of shades depending on how dark I want my skin to be – it’s a myth that you strictly have to go by your skin tone – there’s so many techniques you can use to warm up your complexion without it looking out of place (such as the bronzing mousse mentioned earlier.) Apply this all over the face, eyes and neck – it’s a moral sin to end your foundation at your jaw line – it’s such a common mistake and almost rivals the girls that tan their arms but leave out the hands!
Step 4: If any concealor is required following your foundation then apply it here. For light coverage Laura Mercier does a good concealor, for a heavy coverage opt for Bobbi Brown’s concealor’s or if you’re somewhere in between then the Erase Paste pot’s from Benefit are excellent and come in 3 shades. Apply a highlighter underneath the eyes and on the apple of your cheek bone – I can’t see past YSL’s touché éclat – this will reflect the light in any photos and give your look more definition. Allow the foundation, concealor and highlighter to set - ideally for 2-3 minutes before proceeding with powder.
Step 5: It’s time to set your make up with a powder, ideally mineral as this gives a light weight coverage that doesn’t appear flaky on the skin. Jane Iredale does a brilliant pressed powder, this can be sourced locally at Body and Sole – look out for shades Satin (for pale skin) Suntan (for medium skin) and Fawn (for darker skin). Although this will come provided with a powder pad it’s best to apply this using a powder brush as it applies evenly and is far more hygienic. Apply all over the face, neck and lightly brush over the chest for a seamless transition from make up to natural skin!
Step 6: Blusher and bronzer time – proceed with caution as you don’t want to overdo it for your first application of make up! For your day look brush Bobbi Brown’s Wild Rose shimmer brick over the whole cheek – this gives a nice highlight/shimmer effect and is suitable for all skin tones. I love Mac’s powder blushers – shades ‘well dressed’ for blondes and ‘peaches’ for darker brunettes are a good match. If you need to use bronzer for the day then use Bobbi Brown’s bronzer as it’s very subtle and won’t ruin your top-up application later in the day. But remember that less is more when it comes to blush and bronzer – apply your make up in natural daylight as applying it in a dim may cause you to apply too much and look like co-co the clown on a bad day!
Step 7: Primer for the eyes – I swear by this technique as it keeps your eye shadow in place and stops it from creasing. I use Benefits creaseless eye cream in tattle tale (Benefit have the most bizarre product descriptions!) Spread this all over the eyelid and upper lid and allow to dry for a few seconds.
Step 8: Apply your desired eye shadow here – popular brands for eye shadows are L’Oreal, Urban decay (invest in their 'NAKED 2 palette) and, you guessed it, Bobbi Brown – the only frustrating thing with this brand is that the majority of their eye palettes are limited editions and sell out over night – sign up to their online newsletter and be the first to know when new products are coming out! Apply lighter colours for your day make up – heavy colours will wear off quicker and can harder to re-create later in the day.
Step 9: If you can manage without eyeliner and mascara during the day, do so, as mascara in particular is a difficult part of make up to freshen up – once it’s started to wear it’s quite hard to save it! Apply a light lipstick if you need it – Mac’s ‘Frosty’ is my all time favourite!
Step 10: Top up application
Its 6 o’clock, you’ve just got in from work and have, horror of all horrors, only half an hour to get ready to go out again! Fear not, a ten minute top up application of your make up will give you enough time for a cheeky glass of wine before heading out the door!
- Cover any signs of blemishes with your concealor
- Cover the face (avoiding the eye area) with the same pressed powder as used in the morning, or a darker shade if desired
- Dust some bronzing powder over the chest area to warm up your entire complexion – Bourjois have a good range of natural looking bronzers that aren’t too heavy duty on the shimmer!
- Apply a firmer application of your blusher and bronzer – coral colours and bright pinks are great stand out colours if you’re going somewhere with dim lighting
- Top up your eye shadow, using darker colours towards the outer corner of the eyelid with contrasting bright colours towards the inner eyelid – add a sweep of silvery/white eye shadow to just below the eyebrow to highlight this area further
- Frame underneath the eyes with either brown or black khol eyeliner but never, ever... ever put eyeliner on the inside rim of your eyes – you’ll have guaranteed panda eyes in ten minutes as this school boy error of a technique irritates the eyes no end and causes them to water!
- Using an angled eyeliner brush sweep over the lashline with Bobbi Brown’s gel eyeliner – if you have big eyes then take advantage and draw the line further out from the eye to give a ‘cats eyes’ effect
- Go mad with your mascara now! A good three layers for a night out is a must. I’ve always used maxfactor mascaras, and particularly like the 2000 calorie brush. Apply false eyelashes if desired but bear in mind this can cover a lot of detail you’ve applied onto the eyelid, like your eye shadow and eyeliner - try individual lashes as an alternative. Apply a bit of brown khol eyeliner to the eyebrows if they need more definition – just lightly build this up so you don’t notice the pencil lines and blend with your finger.
- Apply a discreet line of lipliner – even if you’re not a fan of it it’s essential for your gloss/lipstick to stay in place and not ‘bleed.’ Try to find a liner that matches your lipstick as close as possible.
- Complete your look with your desired lipstick or lipgloss – the Estee Lauder lipglosses are fab for a night out – if you’re going out for dinner lipstick is much more long wearing.
There you have it – in less than ten minutes you’ve transformed your day look to an evening look without having to take the lot of and start all over again! The majority of products mentioned can be found online at Debenhams. Previous columns provide more in depth descriptions on application of makeup and eye makeup, which can be found in ‘Dazzling eyes’ and ‘Perfecting your makeup.’